A Himba Tour

Reflecting on an earlier piece, Photographing the Himba, Photo Etiquette – I think it is fitting to discuss what a Himba tour entails.

Firstly, when you are staying at Epupa Falls Lodge & Campsite, you can either pre-book your tour or book it in camp. If you book it in camp, please make sure that you have enough cash.

Secondly, Epupa Falls Lodge & Campsite offers two types of Himba tours.

The Traditional Himba Tour

This is the tour that most tourists will go on. You book your tour as per above methods and you will go out with a local Himba guide to a village we frequent.

Although this all sounds very “normal” this tour is also unique. You see, the guides we “use” and highly recommend, are local Himba from the very village you will be visiting. These guides, though English speaking, do not own a vehicle and certainly don’t have a driver’s license. This means that they will go with you in your vehicle to the village. Now don’t stress – these are westernised Himba and very well trained.

This means that you won’t share your Himba Tour with other guests. You will go out alone with your guide on a private tour. You can also decide when you would like to go and for how long. As you are not bound to wait for other guests, this tour offers the most flexibility.

The Himba Alzheimer’s Project

During this tour, you will go out with Lodge owner, Koos Verwey, to visit the Himba Village of Chief Kapika and the Alzheimer’s Village next door.

During this tour you will not only learn about the Himba while visiting Chief Kapika, you will also learn about Chief Kapika’s sister, Ndjinaa and the Himba Alzheimer’s Project. (Read more about Ndjinaa here.) This is quite a fascinating story and a must if anthropology and/or religion fascinates you.

However, this tour must be pre-booked to ensure that Koos is in camp during your stay.

black bean productions

Exceptions

Professional Photographers, anthropologists etc. who wishes to spend more time with the Himba, always need to specify their specific fields of study or interests when booking a tour. These tours are hand-made accordingly and are charged differently.

For more information, please feel free to contact me at bookings@epupafallslodge.com

 

Photographing the Himba

A Tough Question

I have always wondered how you ask someone, that doesn’t understand a word of what you are saying, to pose for you. For free. As the person being asked to pose, this must be really awkward? I mean, how would you feel if you are sitting watching CSI New York, and here walks in Mr & Mrs Tourist, snapping away… I don’t think I’d be too impressed. And yet, somehow, there are thousands of people who just assumes it as their right to take photos of the Himba – or any other African tribe for that matter.

Is there a right way?

I am a huge fan of Christopher Rimmer’s work (https://christopherrimmer.com/spirits-speak-exhibition/) and have often wondered how he does it. Then, I learned that he takes a local guide with him to help with translation etc and spends hours with his subjects. In using a guide, one subjects oneself to the rules set by the specific tribe. The Himba for instance, prefers to receive food and beads for being photographed. Using a guide and obeying to the rules of the said tribe or village, amounts to quite a few bucks and very few people want to pay for the right to photograph the traditions of a tribe. But again – wouldn’t you also want to be paid?

On this note, I have to add, that I don’t think paying with sweeties is a fair trade. This has not only lead to a nation addicted to sugar, but also to a lot of begging. Ever noticed all those little kids begging for sweeties (or even money) whenever you pass through a village? This is not part of the African culture. This is a classic case of the foreigner attempting to please without considering the long-term effects.

mariette du toit

Unfortunately the whole “Pay for a Photo” also has a downside. Not too long ago we visited Etosha National Park and upon entering the park, I wanted to take a photo of the entrance gate. Incidentally a group of Himba ladies were sitting there, trying to sell their goods. As soon as they noticed my camera, they started screaming at me – apparently I needed to pay to take their photo. Now what?

Firstly I think this behavior is as a result of either being photographed once and paid an exorbitant fee or the result of never being asked for permission to be photographed. Like with everything in life, once we recognise something as a source of income, we can, if not trained, milk our source until it runs dry. And these Himba ladies, I strongly suspect, were in it for the latter.

mariette du toit

How to go about photographing traditional tribes?

Never, as in never, attempt to visit a traditional tribe without a local guide. It doesn’t matter if you are from the same continent or country, if you are not part of that tribe you are a foreigner. You cannot begin to understand their traditions – no matter the amount of books you have read. A guide will help you get a glimpse of the true side of the tribe you are visiting and also translate what your reason for visiting is. Always try to and find a local guide who is one of the tribe or village you are visiting.

If you are staying at a lodge or camp in the area, ask if they offer a guided tour. If you are more than just a tourist, specify your interest so that they can cater for that. For example, a photographer will need to spend much more time with the people than a tourist. A photographer will also need different permissions and therefore be willing to pay more.

Never undervalue the service or privilege that the tribe / village offers you. Put yourself in their shoes and ask yourself how much do you think you are worth.

Conclusion

During my last visit at Epupa, I had the opportunity to photograph two Himba girls. Though they agreed and offered to sit in different poses – I was really uncomfortable. I kept wondering how I would feel if I was in their shoes. Remember to always respect your subjects. Ask their permission and pay them accordingly. Respect comes a long way. Not just for you, but for every photographer that will follow in your shoes.

Disclaimer:

The above is merely my, (Mariëtte du Toit) own opinions and does not represent the views of a lodge or group of people.

 

 

Kaokoland | Landscape

Every now and then Koos, the owner of Epupa Falls Lodge, is talked into doing a safari. Whether it is a hiking safari or a driving safari, someone turns his pinky far enough to convince him this is the year!

In 2011 a group of friends (multiple-return-friends) convinced him to take them into Kaokoland. After many mails and phone calls, a tour was planned and they arrived by plane at Epupa.

Over the next couple of days I will share the photos of one of the travelers with you as they drove through Kaokoland on tour with Koos.

Photos | © Dieter – Epupa Falls Lodge

Tour Operator | Kaoko Himba Safaris

Kaokoland Safari | A Wet Start

Every now and then Koos, the owner of Epupa Falls Lodge, is talked into doing a safari. Whether it is a hiking safari or a driving safari, someone turns his pinky far enough to convince him this is the year! In 2011 a group of friends (multiple-return-friends) convinced him to take them into Kaokoland.

After many mails and phone calls, a tour was planned and they arrived by plane at Epupa.

Over the next couple of days I will share the photos of one of the travelers with you as they drove through Kaokoland on tour with Koos. Enjoy!

Photos | © Dieter – Epupa Falls Lodge

Tour Operator | Kaoko Himba Safaris

Kaokoland Safari | Marienfluss

Every now and then Koos, the owner of Epupa Falls Lodge, is talked into doing a safari. Whether it is a hiking safari or a driving safari, someone turns his pinky far enough to convince him this is the year! In 2011 a group of friends (multiple-return-friends) convinced him to take them into Kaokoland.

After many mails and phone calls, a tour was planned and they arrived by plane at Epupa.

Over the next couple of days I will share the photos of one of the travelers with you as they drove through Kaokoland on tour with Koos. Enjoy!

Today we will look at some of the extraordinary plants one finds upon discovering Kaokoland…

Photos | © Dieter – Epupa Falls Lodge

Tour Operator | Kaokohimba Safaris

Activities | Himba Tour

Epupa is not just about the Epupa Waterfalls – it is also about the Himba. Though the Himba in Epupa has given up their nomadic lifestyle, the villages in the area are still very much traditional. But don’t expect to find a Himba without a phone – even they have learned that it is easier to call to find out where it has rained than to walk there…

Photos © Dieter – Epupa Falls Lodge

Entomology | Epupa Bugs

Many of our guests are surprised to find bugs and spiders in their chalets and we have had complaints about it. Well, this is to warn those guests – we live in the bush and while you travel in Namibia, you will mostly be in the bush. This is not a zoo where we lock up the animals at night and open them up in the morning – placing them in cages – we live among them. Africa is their home and we try to live with them.

Here then, a collection of our bugs. We will add to this collection as we find them hiding in the crevices and in the darkness… because ultimately – they are more scared of us.

Botany | Makalani Palms

Wikipidia reports the following:

The Real fan palm (Hyphaene petersiana), locally known as the Makalani palm, is a palm tree native to the subtropical, low-lying regions of south central Africa. Its habitat is open woodland, flood plains, banks of rivers and the fringes of pans and swamps. It is found in Burundi, Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Tanzania, Angola, Mozambique, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia and the northern and north-eastern Transvaal.[2]

As with other Hyphaene species, H. petersiana is dioicous and the female plants produce copious fruit of some 60 mm diameter. Up to 2,000 fruit may be found on a tree,[3] the combined yield of about four seasons.[4] The seeds germinate with difficulty but find saline conditions beneficial.[4] They develop massive tap-roots which draw saline water deep underground.[4] Though slow-growing,[3] they may attain a maximum height of 18m.[5] Typical adult plants are in the order of 5-7m high.

The plants are utilized by humans and animals. Repeated cutting of the growth point to obtain sap for palm wine production may eventually destroy the trees.[3] (This is sadly, also very true here in the Cunene Region where these trees are destroyed without any thought about the future.) The stem pith is edible. Beneath the outer fibrous husk of the fruit is a core of white endosperm known as ‘vegetable ivory’, initially soft and edible and containing some liquid comparable to coconut milk.[5] The Ovambo people call the fruit of the Makalani palm eendunga and use it to distill ombike, their traditional liquor.[6]

Photos © Dieter – Epupa Falls Lodge