Getting here is part of the trip. Google Maps doesn’t always get it right this far north, so a bit of local knowledge helps.

From Opuwo — Head north on the C43 for about 121km to Okongwati, a good stop for fuel, cold drinks, and the best Portuguese rolls on the route (Alfons Restaurant, just off the main stop street). Continue north on the C43 for another 78km. Once you pass the airstrip on your right, you’re close — the road winds down the pass you’ve just spent an hour climbing, so take the last few kilometres slowly. Follow the signs toward Epupa; you’ll pass a small police station on your right and a community campsite on your left. Continue about 50m and the lodge is on your left. You’ve arrived.

From Ruacana — Take the D3700 along the river, slowly. There’s regular foot and livestock traffic on this stretch, and it’s one of the most scenic drives in Namibia, so there’s no reason to rush. Stop at Swart Boois Drift for the view. Near Epupa, head past the town on your right to the T-junction and turn right (left takes you back toward Opuwo). Same landmarks from there — police station right, community campsite left, lodge 50m further on your left.

Good to know before you drive in — The D3700 is in good condition today and manageable in a 4×4 with reasonable clearance. Namibia’s rainy season runs November–March, wettest in Kaokoland February–March. Rain rarely lasts long, but flash floods happen fast. If a river is flowing, don’t drive through it — wait it out or turn back.